|Middle Triple Peak - East Buttress - our base camp at 5400'|
|East Buttress, the light colored rock at base is the blank section|
|100 pounds each. The route starts on the other side of this pass.|
|Lowering the sleds down the steep south side of the access col.|
|Recon mission, in the serac blast zone. Bad place to be, so only stood here long enough to take the photo below|
|Debris covering our tracks|
|Just past the serac danger zone, base of the climb|
|Fixing the blank 100' section took 4 hours of aid climbing|
|300 vertical feet of slomo A3 aid climbing|
The weather had something else in mind. Nine days of stormy weather to be exact. Everyday we would unzip the tent door, peek outside, and then fall back into the sleeping bag. The descriptors were words like, ping pong ball, milk jug, full-on, pissy, gnarly, grey bird, etc. We would sleep as much as possible, which was roughly 13 hours per day, and played a lot of cribbage. If you have to be trapped in a tent of that long, a notable perk is being with someone you can have sex with. Our Goal Zero Nomad 20 and Sherpa 100 solar kit kept our phones and iPad fueled which helped a bunch with the stoke. That is until we watched the movie, Everest. Very very poor life decision to watch that movie while on a scary mountain with your spouse.
|clear midnight skies but very icy rock climbing|
|View from the tent. Serac wall had to be walked under to and from the route.|
|View of the approach to the base of the route.|
|One final push on a nice weather morning|
|Our high point, top of pitch 5 on the 1982 topo, 300' off the ground. We beefed up the anchors and "folded".|
|Double carried back up the col.|
|Back at the LZ, we skied in the runway and waited for the TAT cavalry.|
|Garage sale or drying session?|
Beta:Helpful things we learned about the route, and suggestions for future attempts. It can be done!
- Footwear: Single boots are likely warm enough, like the La Sportiva Batura GTX 2.0, it was difficult to step out of the aiders with the big double boots. A techy approach shoe might be really good for those bottom pitches. The 200' above the blank section would go free at 5.10R is my guess.
- Ropes: I'd take a 300' static 9mm, 60m 9.2 Sterling Aero Dry, and 60m 7.8mm Photon, optional 30m glacier rope. You could fix 500' of rope and then get sendy.
- Seracs: That is what shut us down. We have walked under many seracs to get to routes, but the difference is we had to walk under this active set again and again, and that stress got to us. Best case is you can crush the aid climbing and fix all 500' in one day. Then come back and get on the route and send. That way you are only exposed for two round trip missions. Exposure time is 15 min each way.
- Timing: So few people go in here it's hard to know when is the best time. Good weather does happen, I'm told. Much later in the season than June 10, and the crevasses would be a significant hurdle on the approach and descent.
- Gas: We were able to melt a bunch of snow in a sled with black garbage bag, and only cooked one or two hot meals per day. Only used 1/2 of white gallon of gas in 13 days!
- Aid Gear: 5 Knifeblades, 2-3 of each size pecker pitons, set of standard nuts, two talon hooks, two skyhook (one big one small), and cams were enough to get up to where we stopped. The bat hooks I created were hard to find even the next day after drilling them, so a hand drill and a couple bits are recommended.
- Weather: YR.no had the most reliable forecast, but reality was generally worse than what it predicted
- Safe camping: The first flat spot on the other side of the col is where we camped at 5400 feet. It was 40 mins walking to the base of the route. If you camp at the lowest part of the Sunshine Glacier you are exposed to falling hazard in a big way.
- Hope that helps. You can do it. Get 'er done.