Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Worth A Thousand Words

 Mt Waddington is one tough son-of-a-gun to get to, and even harder to climb. I wrote a trip report that will be published in a book by High Col Press in Canada. Instead of re-posting I decided that a photo journal will be more fun. These photos were all taken by Chris Werner, who is an excellent photographer based in Lake Tahoe.

Heres how it went down...
A bug

10 hours of driving took us from Seattle to White Saddle Air Service in BC

Lulu provides dinner and laundry services

Sort-n-Pack time, got wrapped up just as it started raining
Just before our $3300 35 minute taxi ride


Taxi ride views

Started at 2:30AM the day after flying onto the Glacier. Had a few thousand feet of glacier navigation before the climb

Much easier to navigate after the sun rises. Took 4 hours to get to the burgshrund

The main entrance/exit couloir which is more like a rock and ice gutter. Simi-climbing made it pass quickly

Heading out across the triangle snowfield. Where's Waldo?

5.6ish rock pitch 1100' below the summit

Where are we suppose to go now? Ended up taking a new "accidental" first ascent variation up the dark groove over my right shoulder. To the right of the rime tipped "ear" feature.

Looking down one of the scariest pitches Ive ever led. 5.9ish

One more pitch to go. Nerves fired, ready to be done, excited to be so close.

One happy moment. We had run out of mountain.
Headed down the notch on the North side of Waddington. Thankfully cold temps kept the rock in place. This groove Im standing in was formed by moving things. Scary.

One last rap, across the shrund. Back on the glacier where a whiteout pinned us down for a few hours.

Back at basecamp, happy to eat and sleep to our hearts content.

Back to the land of the living.

Best thing to do after a big scary climb....hold a puppy.

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