Heres how it went down...
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| A bug |
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| 10 hours of driving took us from Seattle to White Saddle Air Service in BC |
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| Lulu provides dinner and laundry services |
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| Sort-n-Pack time, got wrapped up just as it started raining |
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| Just before our $3300 35 minute taxi ride |
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| Taxi ride views |
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| Started at 2:30AM the day after flying onto the Glacier. Had a few thousand feet of glacier navigation before the climb |
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| Much easier to navigate after the sun rises. Took 4 hours to get to the burgshrund |
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| The main entrance/exit couloir which is more like a rock and ice gutter. Simi-climbing made it pass quickly |
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| Heading out across the triangle snowfield. Where's Waldo? |
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| 5.6ish rock pitch 1100' below the summit |
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| Where are we suppose to go now? Ended up taking a new "accidental" first ascent variation up the dark groove over my right shoulder. To the right of the rime tipped "ear" feature. |
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| Looking down one of the scariest pitches Ive ever led. 5.9ish |
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| One more pitch to go. Nerves fired, ready to be done, excited to be so close. |
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| One happy moment. We had run out of mountain. |
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| Headed down the notch on the North side of Waddington. Thankfully cold temps kept the rock in place. This groove Im standing in was formed by moving things. Scary. |
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| One last rap, across the shrund. Back on the glacier where a whiteout pinned us down for a few hours. |
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| Back at basecamp, happy to eat and sleep to our hearts content. |
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| Back to the land of the living. |
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| Best thing to do after a big scary climb....hold a puppy. |
